Category Archives: Mumbai

Do all old school things have to come to an end?

It was 1923. Britannia and Company, one of Mumbai’s old Parsi restaurant was established in the city then called Bombay.

That same year, Boman Kohinoor, the 93-year-old man, who now runs the restaurant was born. An iconic Parsi restaurant in south Mumbai, it is known for its Berry Pullav

The signature dish at Britania and Company
The signature dish at Britannia and Company Berry Pullav

A few days ago, CNN Traveller initiated a campaign  in  which the nonagenarian Boman expressed his desire to meet Prince William and Kate during their visit to India.  On April 11, Boman was able to meet Will and Kate! The entire campaign was too cute,  went viral and made a lot of us go awww. I too went awww.

93-year-old Boman Kohinoor, the owner of Britannia and Company

With this inspiration, I visited Britannia and Company to meet the man and talk about how he felt when his dream came true.

While I reached the 93-year-old  restaurant, a journalist was around asking him questions. I waited at one of the tables with a fresh lime soda.  To beat the Monday blues, a group of office goers had come to the restaurant for lunch. On other tables were laid back foreigners who seemed to enjoy the Parsi and Iranian cuisine.

In the meantime, I got talking to the manager and Boman’s son who was running the show. The  old and iconic places shutting down in Mumbai is not something new to the city.  I asked him, what is your plan? A lot of old places have been shutting down.  To which he added, “This place is also going to shut someday. In July 2017, the lease gets over.”

Ballard estate, the area in south Mumbai where the  restaurant is located is a heritage area. The land belongs to the Bombay Port Trust(BPT) and thus, the lease belongs them. The building is owned by another landlord and as per the Pagdi system, the owners become sub-tenants.

With so many channels involved, running the show may not be the most easiest task.

While I was just about to digest this,  “Britannia Unlce” as he is fondly called  got free.  I asked him what keeps him lively and he said, I learnt fitness lesson from my grandfather. I used to  walk  five miles every day, then he pushed me to jog five miles and then eventually I ran five miles every day”

Adding that, ” Soon, I won a sports competition and my grandfather, who had actually come to India from Persia, was satisfied with me.

“After a few years,  he said you have now come off age. Now, you should stop being a womaniser and settle down. Within six months, I got my girlfriend home and we were married.”

His eyes sparkled when he spoke about his wife. “In 1993 she died. The Berry Pulav was her dish actually. She gave it to me and used to train the cooks.”

In earlier days, the restaurant got the cooks from Goa and then Mangalore. Today, most of the cooks come from Jharkhand.  “The people from Jharkhand are hard-working and they respect the work,” he said.

I asked him what keeps him going and prompt came the reply, “I cannot stay at home for long. Every day I dress up and I am back to work. This place is like my home.” When food is cooked with love and served with love, people will sure come to vist.

At the end, I again asked the question, what is the future of this restaurant?

“Madam, in 1950, I made a note of Parsi restaurants in Mumbai and back then there were around 470 restaurants. Today, there are hardly 40 left. You know why? Children want to become doctors, engineers, lawyers and no one wants to work in a restaurant. He added, “In the British era, we had few  licences and taxes to pay. Today, there is so much more paperwork and so many taxes…”

This made me realise the times that we have been living in. Do all old school things have to come to an end? After a year, will we talk about stories and headlines stating – An end of an era.

It won’t be surprising if that happens.  Do we prefer not going to these places because  people know about them, but do not want to really visit  them?

In the recent times, iconic places in Mumbai that have had headlines An end of an era and have shut down.

  1. Rhythm House
  2. Samovar Cafe
  3. Wayside Inn and the story of table number 4 where Babasaheb Ambedkar sat.

The building where Crystal in Chowpatty is located is going to go in redevelopment soon. There are news reports which state Parsi Dairy farm , Mondegar Cafe may shut down as well.

What have we done to stop this?  Dear world of the internet, maybe the next campaign to go viral should be save the iconic places of Mumbai and support them  to grow.

Let us all go awww on those as well.


What I saw as a traveller at the Kalaghoda festival in Mumbai

Perhaps, the best way to explore a city is to observe it through the lens of art, theater and culture and the social movements deeply rooted in the history. 

One such event which is synonymous to the city where I am born and brought up- Mumbai is the Kalaghoda Arts  Festival which takes place every year in the month of February.

What does Kalaghoda mean?

Kalaghoda literally means ‘Black Horse’ . A black stone statue was built by a Jewish philanthropist David Sasson and King Edward 7 was mounted on the statue.

The area at Kalaghoda has art galleries, museums and libraries. This part of the town, is also one my favourite places to just be.

I leave you with wandering pictures that I could relate to.

Somewhere is always a good place to arrive.
Somewhere is always a good place to arrive!
Preserve not perish
Preserve not perish. The world is indeed a beautiful place to explore, see and discover.
Hello Bastar
Hello Bastar

Bastar, is a district in Chattisgargh, a state in central India. Many Indians assume that the place is unsafe and it is labeled to breed Naxalisim. The hobo feels that at times, you have to look beyond the obvious to do justice to the rich art and cultural heritage.

 Bastar artifacts are made by the tribal’s and many of them depict the rural lifestyle of the tribals.  These artifacts are prepared from Dhokra technique and use cow dung, paddy husk and beeswax and red soil to prepare the handicraft. The process to see these being made  is worth a watch and calls for a visit!

I saw a poster -‘Lost? Learn Geography’ with a world map  and this led me to one of the stalls. After a bit of interaction with the owner, I learnt BrownBox Toys created some interesting illustrations related to travel. It makes books and toys which take children on ‘trips’ to exciting destinations around the world.

What an interesting way to teach children  about Geography through some fun activities. I really wish when I was a child, I had these things to learn from.

For all you armchair travellers and children alike
For all you armchair travellers and children alike.

Event: Kalaghoda Arts Festival

Where: Kalaghoda, south Mumbai

When: February 6-February 14



Entry: Free

Disclaimer: There is a lot to the festival apart from the travel things I spoke about. The festival is worth a visit to see the vibrant side of Mumbai.

When the hobo gets nostalgic

While these were some of the travel related things, some of the iconic places at Kalaghoda have shut down or on the verge of shutting down. Simply because they are not able to keep up with the competition of commercialisation or have had management squabbles. For instance, the iconic Samovar Cafe located inside the Jehangir Art Gallery that shut down after five decades.

Rhythm house, another iconic shop for music lovers shut soon and has a goodbye sale going on.

Feels odd to see these iconic places to shut down which were once the heart of the city.

The goodbye sale at they Rhythm House
The goodbye sale at they Rhythm House

Do you have some art and cultural stories to share? I would love to hear them.


Nostalgic Hobo